In this monthly conversation series Grant Scott speaks with art director, lecturer and creative director Fiona HayesIn an informal conversation each month Grant and Fiona comment on the photographic environment as they see it through the exhibitions, magazines, talks and events that Fiona has seen over the previous weeks.

Mentioned in this episode:
Akihiko Okamura was at Photo Museum Ireland, Dublin:
https://photomuseumireland.ie/akihiko-okamura
The book: https://prestelpublishing.penguinrandomhouse.de/book/Akihiko-Okamura-The-Memories-of-Others/Masako-Toda/Prestel-com/e632636.rhd
Ernest Cole, House of Bondage at The Photographers Gallery, London until September 22nd 2024: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/ernest-cole-house-bondage
Zanele Muholi is at Tate Modern, London until January 2026: www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/zanele-muholi
Beyond Fashion is at the Saatchi Gallery, London until September 8th 2024: www.saatchigallery.com/product/beyond-fashion?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAA97D8TjtPF8eKIe-D34fVdND2z2jg&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkdO0BhDxARIsANkNcreZ-6qBMiXXjOK9XGRNDsWsmB89mPNpMhPmz82D6AxHUoXs5BbxF6QaAl7IEALw_wcB
Cartography magazine: https://bycartography.com/en/homepage/

Fiona Hayes
Fiona Hayes is an art director, designer, consultant and lecturer with over 30 years’ experience in publishing, fashion and the art world. She has been a magazine art director ten times: on PunchCompanyEve, the British and Russian editions of CosmopolitanHouse & Garden, GQ India, Myself Germany, and Russian Vogue (twice). Between 2013 and 2019, as Art Director of New Markets and Brand Development for Condé Nast International, based in London and Paris, she oversaw all the company’s launches – 14 magazines, including seven editions of Vogue. She still consults as Design Director at Large for Vogue Hong Kong. In 2002 she founded independent photography magazine DayFour, publishing it continuously until 2012. She is Co-Author and Art Director of The Fashion Yearbook, and creative director of books for South African media consultancy Legacy Creates. Outside the publishing world, she has been Art Director of contemporary art auction house Phillips de Pury in London and New York, and Consultant Art Director of Russian luxury retail group Mercury/TSUM. (Fiona would like to point out she is not Russian: she is proudly Irish and studied Visual Communication and History of Art and Design at NCAD Dublin.) She currently divides her time between design consultancy for commercial clients, and lecturing at Oxford Brookes University, the Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design, London, Nottingham Trent University, Ravensbourne University, and Leeds University. She lives in West London. @theartdictator

Dr.Grant Scott
After fifteen years art directing photography books and magazines such as Elle and Tatler, Scott began to work as a photographer for a number of advertising and editorial clients in 2000. Alongside his photographic career Scott has art directed numerous advertising campaigns, worked as a creative director at Sotheby’s, art directed foto8magazine, founded his own photographic gallery, edited Professional Photographer magazine and launched his own title for photographers and filmmakers Hungry Eye. He founded the United Nations of Photography in 2012, and is now a Senior Lecturer and Subject Co-ordinator: Photography at Oxford Brookes University, Oxford, and a BBC Radio contributor. Scott is the author of Professional Photography: The New Global Landscape Explained (Routledge 2014), The Essential Student Guide to Professional Photography (Routledge 2015), New Ways of Seeing: The Democratic Language of Photography (Routledge 2019), and What Does Photography Mean To You? (Bluecoat Press 2020). His photography has been published in At Home With The Makers of Style (Thames & Hudson 2006) and Crash Happy: A Night at The Bangers (Cafe Royal Books 2012). His film Do Not Bend: The Photographic Life of Bill Jay was premiered in 2018.

Scott’s next book is Inside Vogue HouseOne building, seven magazines, sixty years of stories, Orphans Publishing, is on sale February 2024.

© Grant Scott 2024


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2 responses to “PODCAST: A Photographic Life, Episode 324: See/Saw with Fiona Hayes ‘Akihiko Okamura, Ernest Cole, Zanele Muholi, Beyond Fashion…’”

  1. Yes, independence is vital if credibility is to be sustained over the longer term. I hope it continues to be worth the effort keeping on producing this site on that basis; I enjoy it very much. One of the key factors, for me, is your experience of the world of which you speak. Obviously, that’s the main attraction for me, with my distant past.

    Regarding the discussion here with Fiona about the fashion exhibition: I take the opposite view, in that in an exhibition or book situation, I find that I am perfectly happy looking at photographs, preferably in black/white, without a line of copy accompanying them. No, I have not seen that show – the last one I went to during a trip back to Britain was in Hamilton’s Gallery, featuring work by Robert Mapplethorpe’s brother. I was wandering slowly around, looking at the photographs with a professional eye, and the patter coming from a gallerist beside me, clearly trying to extol the work to a lady non-photographer-possible-client, made me want to laugh out loud. The photo in question was, as I recall, of Annie Lennox about a yard from some textured wallpaper. The gallerist was pointing out how amazing it was that the texture of the gently OOF background was so clear… I kinda wondered where the magic in that lay. Oh well, just like sell knitwear.

    Here, in Pollensa, I once went to a gallery showing a collection of photographs, a series of pictures of black children, all of them somehow injured, playing games in a dusty compound somewhere in Africa. Later, I was told that the gallery had failed to sell any, and was not going to show photography again. Surprise!

    I note that you spent some time up in Soller; was it the thunder drove you away – or the oranges? 😉

    1. No it was the lure of working as the creative director of Sotheby’s that drew us away from Soller.

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